How to Shave with a Straight Razor

Are you interested in learning how to use a straight razor? Are you looking to perfect the art of the traditional wet shave and master the skill of straight razor shaving?

Look no further as we have put together a comprehensive guide on how to use and maintain a straight razor, including some information on the history of the blade, a few tips on how to choose a razor and the pros and cons of straight razor shaving.

How to Use a Straight Razor

You will need a good quality shaving brush (silvertip badger hair is the best, but regular badger or boar hair is fine too, especially for beginners), shaving soap or cream and your straight razor.

  1. Create a lather with your brush and soap or cream and apply to your face using a circular motion.
    The brush will lift hairs and exfoliate the skin underneath and the lather will provide your skin with a protective barrier as well as a lubricant to allow your razor to glide effectively.
  2. Place your ring finger over the tang of the razor
  3. Place your middle and index fingers on the back of the blade
  4. Put your thumb in the center of the area just beneath the blade
  5. Hold the blade at an angle of 30 degrees
  6. Start at the top and work your way down 
  7. Pass the blade in the direction of the grain over your skin, making sure that you do not press down hard, letting the blade do the work
  8. Use short strokes
  9. Use your other hand to keep your skin taut
  10. Subsequent passes can be made, but always with the grain
  11. Add lather if needed
  12. Never shave against the grain, especially if you are a beginner, as this will make you more prone to nicks, cuts and irritations

You can also check out this great video demonstration showing how to shave with a straight razor:-

Choosing a Straight Razor

While there is a market for second-hand and antique straight razors, if you are new to the game it is better off sticking to a new razor. It is important to look for razors made of quality steel (you can’t really go wrong with a Dovo or Boker for example).

Those who aren’t completely ready to make an investment right off the bat can go with a shavette-style straight razor that takes disposable blades (Parker and Feather make high quality versions of this type of razor at a very affordable price).

Straight razors come in different widths, grinds and points, so you may need to try a few different ones to see which type works for you.

The most common widths are usually 5/8 and are hollow ground, so that can be used as your base if you are a beginner.

In any case, whether second-hand or new, a straight razor will need to be honed and stropped before use.

A good quality straight razor will not be shave-ready at purchase. You can maintain the blade yourself or professionally if that is what you prefer.​

How to Care for a Straight Razor

Many straight razors are made from high carbon content steel which means they can rust (as opposed to stainless steel).

It is important to dry your razor well after each use, and to strop and hone as needed. Some people recommend leaving the razor to “rest” for 24 hours after use to ensure that it straightens out correctly.

If you are storing the blade for a while it should be oiled and stored in a dry space.

Honing and Stropping

As mentioned above, straight razors require regular honing and stropping to make sure that the blade maintains its sharpness. If you are not interested in doing this yourself you can get it done professionally, however, neither task is too difficult.

Stropping requires a leather strop and honing a good honing stone. The video below describes how to proceed with each task.

Advantages and Disadvantages

Pros of Straight Razor

  • With practice a straight razor will provide the smoothest and cleanest shave out of any type of razor.
  • Using a straight razor correctly is the best way to avoid skin irritations, ingrown hairs and razor bumps.
  • Even if the initial cost of a straight razor may seem pricey, you will save in the long run by never having to buy another razor again (or will just need to buy blades every so often if you are using a shavette-type razor).
  • It is much more eco-friendly that using disposable cartridge razors.
  • Straight razor shaving is a real skill, and something that will set you apart from others.

Cons of Straight Razor

  • It can take time to master straight razor shaving correctly. The learning curve is a lot bigger than with other forms of shaving.
  • Your morning shave will take longer with a straight razor, and it’s not the best option when you are in a hurry.
  • It’s not a good idea to use a straight razor to shave when you are half asleep. You need to be fully alert in order to avoid bad cuts. The blades are very sharp!
  • You have to maintain your razor on a regular basis, by making sure it is honed and stropped.

History

Straight razors are also known to be called cut-throat razors or open razors and should not be confused with double edge safety razors.

The history of shaving and hair removal can be traced back to prehistoric times where hair was most likely shaved off with a sharpened flint, however, the beginnings of the straight razor as we know it today came about in the late 17th century.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, straight razors became more and more effective and were used regularly in both barbershops and at home.

By the first quarter of the 20th century however, the safety razor took over in popularity, later to be replaced by disposable cartridge razors.

In the last 10 years or so, there has been a real return towards the art and skill of traditional wet shaving, a nod towards the experience and the quality of shave that both straight and safety razors bring.

Conclusion

So, do you feel ready to take the leap and try your hand at traditional wet shaving with a straight razor? Do you have any blade preferences?

Let us know your thoughts in the comment section below!

Once you have mastered the skill there really isn’t any going back to cartridge razors, as the quality of shave is so much better and smoother.

Sue
 

For the past 12 months, I have been testing and playing with all sorts of hair removal products for Hair Free Life. My goal is to provide the most accurate and up-to-date hair removal consumer information on the internet. When I'm not photographing, reviewing and researching hair removal products I play the drums in a samba band and am a volunteer for the Swindon Lions! Got any questions? Write to us below:

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